New England Fish Chowder

Chowder is a culinary tradition that has been enjoyed in the northeast US for hundreds of years. Like all traditional New England cooking, it is simply prepared, but hearty and loaded with flavor. Growing up in a Catholic family in Vermont, corn chowder was a staple for Friday night dinners during the lenten season. And, of course, anyone who has ever has a good clam chowder can tell you the stuff they make in Manhattan is totally misnamed. 


Unfortunately, a lot of folks only experience chowders at diners or from cans, neither of which are adequate representations of a good New England chowder. They are unusually thick and bland—often devoid of any taste of the sea or earth at all. But a good chowder has many layers of flavor—bacon or salt pork, good stock, a little cream, fresh herbs, big chunks of potatoes, and fresh fish and/or veggies that are not over-cooked. Chowder is a hearty, one-pot supper, closer to a stew than soup. It is a perfect comfort food for a cold Fall or Winter evening's meal.

Here is a recipe I adapted from Jasper White's cookbook, 50 Chowders: One Pot Meals—Clams, Corn, and Beyond. It cooks up in under 30 minutes.







New England Fish Chowder
Serves 6 as a main course

3-4 ounces thick-sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4" pieces
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
1 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
3 Tbs. flour
1 lb. baby potatoes, skin-on, cut in 3/4" chunks
3/4 cup dry white wine
3/4 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups homemade chicken stock
1 cup bottled clam juice (or use broth from 2 sm. cans of clams and toss them in at the end)
1 1/2 pounds tilapia fillets, whole
1 to 1 1/2 cups frozen succotash
1 cup half and half (or light cream)
2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley for garnish

In a large pot, fry the bacon until crisp and the fat is rendered; remove to paper towels. Add the butter and onion and saute until they start to take on a little color. Add the herbs and flour and stir until completely combined. Slowly whisk in the wine, scrapping up browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Stir in the stock and clam juice then add the salt, pepper, and potatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes or so, until just tender.

Add the whole fish fillets and succotash. Cook over med-high heat for another 5-10 minutes until the fish falls apart into big chunks when you stir it. Add the half and half then taste to adjust seasonings. Serve immediately topped with fresh parsley and reserved bacon pieces. Optional oyster crackers (or plain goldfish) are a traditional accompaniment.