Monday, January 30, 2012

Pumpkin Cinnamon Buns: A Great Start to a Holiday Morning

[This is an old bit that I never got around to posting. OOPS! My holiday rantings are a little out of season, but the recipe is still a great one to try any time of the year.]

When I was growing up, every Christmas morning my Mom would make Pillsbury Cinnamon Rolls. You know, the kind in the little cardboard tube that you have to rap on the corner of a table to pop open? How fun is that, by the way? I think she did this primarily because she was so busy with a house packed full of people and presents and in the midst of preparing a big afternoon meal. Breakfast needed to be something simple and quick. The fact that she never seemed to make those cinnamon buns at any other time (she rarely used factory produced foods) made them somehow a special tradition. This past Christmas Eve, my brother Dave shared that he and his family still eat the Pillsbury buns every Christmas morning. "And not the fancy kind, either, " he said, "We tried them and they weren't right. It has to be the original kind."


We have our own traditions in our small family. For many years, I have made an often elaborate breakfast on Christmas morning. I try to make a nice sit-down morning meal because the rest of the day is spent visiting and grazing. The week before Christmas I found a recipe for pumpkin cinnamon buns. I thought it would be a nice way to honor the old cinnamon bun tradition and add a new twist. I and my family are all fans of sweets containing pumpkin—pies, scones, muffins, cakes, custards. It is all good. And, adding pumpkin to things is a great way to up the nutritional value.


The buns I made were largely following a recipe on GoodLife Eats. My only changes were to add some chopped pecans to the filling, reduce the butter a bit, and change up the icing a little. They were a little time consuming to make, but I must say, the results were well worth the effort. Next time, I would mix up the dough, do the first rise, and assemble the buns the night before, leaving just the final rise and baking for the next morning. I am not even sure the icing is even needed as it distracts from the pumpkin and spice flavors in the rolls and makes them a little too sweet for my liking. Jim, on the other hand, went to town on the icing.


I served these cinnamon buns up with a rosemary potato frittata, fresh fruit, and some thick-slice Vermont maple bacon. Mmmmm!

Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls with Maple Cream Cheese Icing

Dough:
1/4 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast
1/3 cup warm milk (I used leftover eggnog and reduced the sugar a bit)
1 large room temperature egg, beaten
3/4 cup pumpkin puree
1  Tbs. melted butter
1 1/2 to 2 cups All-Purpose Flour
1 1 /4 cup Whole Wheat Pastry Flour
1/2 cup brown sugar (a little less is fine)
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

Filling:
5-6 Tbs. butter, room temperature
1/2 cup white sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 to 3/4 cup finely chopped pecans
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon each of allspice and ginger
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cloves

Icing:
4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
6 Tbs. butter, room temperature
1/2 tsp. maple extract
About 2 cups powdered sugar

Combine the yeast and water in a large bowl and let the mixture rest for 5 minutes until foamy. Add the milk, eggs, pumpkin, butter, whole wheat flour, brown sugar, salt, and spices to the yeast mixture. Stir vigorously until well-combined.

Add the AP flour, starting with 1 1/2 cups and adding more as needed, until the dough is stiff enough to knead. Knead the dough on a floured surface, adding flour as necessary, until it is smooth and elastic.

Place the dough into a greased bowl. Turn the dough in the bowl to coat the entire ball of dough with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm place until doubled, approximately 1 hour.

Combine the filling ingredients, except butter, in a another bowl; set aside.

When the dough has risen amply, pat or roll it into a 16" x 12" rectangle. Spread it with butter and top evenly with the sugar/spice mixture.

Roll the dough into a log the long way. Using a very sharp knife, slice the log into 16 pieces. Place the pieces in a two 9” round cake pans. Cover with a towel and let the buns rise until almost doubled, about 45 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 375° F. Bake the rolls until they are brown around the edges and beginning to turn golden brown across the center, about 20-30 minutes.

While the rolls bake, prepare the cream cheese icing. Whip the cream cheese, butter, and extract in a medium bowl using a hand mixer. Add the powdered sugar 1/2 cup at a time, blending in between, until well mixed and the desired consistency is reached.

Frost warm rolls with the icing and serve immediately.

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Creme Anglaise and Tart Cherry Sauce

Jim turned 46 on January 14. For his birthday cake, he requested a flourless chocolate cake. Generally, I find this type of dessert too rich and too chocolatey, so I usually served it with a raspberry or strawberry coulis to tame it a bit.

This year, Sam suggested I make a cherry sauce to go with it, since cherries and chocolate "just go together." I happened to have a can of sour cherries in the pantry so decided to give it a try. Meanwhile, Jim mentioned he would like a custard sauce with it, as it is sometimes served in restaurants. Being a person who has problems setting limits, the solution was simple for me—why not do them both; and whipped cream, too.

The combination of the intense chocolate flavor and richness of the cake was balanced extremely well by the bright cherry sauce and not-too-sweet custard sauce. A dollop of barely-sweetened whipped cream was a nice garnish. The boys and I also had fun coming up with interesting ways to plate the dessert.

The cake (Double Chocolate Mousse Cake) recipe is one I have been using for more than 20 years. [Doesn't it make you feel a little old when you can refer back that far and still be talking about your adulthood?] A co-worker, from my days at UVM as a research assistant, shared it with me. It is originally from Good Housekeeping, September 1989. I omitted the glaze this time. You can find the full recipe here.

Double Chocolate Mousse Cake
2 - 8 oz. packages semi-sweet chocolate squares (16 - 1 oz. squares)
2 cups butter
1 cup sugar
1 cup half-and-half 
1 Tbs. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. salt
8 large eggs

Preheat oven to 350.°  Grease 10” spring form pan and line it with parchment. In a saucepan heat chocolate, butter, sugar, half-and-half, vanilla, and salt over low heat until smooth and melted.

In a large bowl beat eggs slightly. Stir in chocolate mixture. Pour into prepared pan. Bake 45 minutes until a toothpick inserted 2” from side comes out clean (the middle will no longer be concave). Cool completely on a wire rack. When cool remove sides of pan. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 6 hours.


Tart Cherry Sauce

1/2 cup sugar
2 Tbs. cornstarch
1 can Oregon Red Tart Cherries
Pinch of salt

Drain cherries, reserving the liquid. Combine cherry liquid, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil then simmer, stirring, until thickened and the color deepens. Add cherries and cook a few minutes longer.

Remove from heat and puree using a hand blender. Strain the sauce. I added a little red food coloring (and a drop of blue) because I found the color to be a bit too drab. 

Cover the sauce with plastic wrap and cool to room temperature. Chill, if desired.


Vanilla Creme Anglaise (Custard Sauce)
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
7 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Mix the yolks and sugar together in a mixing bowl. Set aside.

In a saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk 1/3 of the liquid, pouring in a thin stream, into the yolks.

Pour the contents of the bowl into the saucepan and return it to medium heat. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens and comes to a complete boil. Remove from heat and strain into a clean bowl. Stir in the vanilla.

Cover the sauce with plastic wrap and chill.

Adapted from a recipe from Le Bec Fin posted on the Philly Homegrown website.