Secrets of a French Toast Snob

It all started about five or six years ago in Montreal. Jim and I were on a little weekend getaway to Montreal during Christimas vacation while the kids were with Gramma and Papa in Vermont.  We stayed at a small boutique inn, The Auberge Bonaparte, which was located in historic Vieux (old) Montreal. Breakfast in hotel's lovely french cafe was included in our stay package. I had the most beautiful and delicious french toast ever. Thickly-sliced baguette nicely browned and topped with fresh berries and powdered sugar. Inside they were warm and custardy. I knew then I could never eat french toast made with sandwich bread again. And I never have.


The love of truly good french toast is something Sam and Ethan feel as passionate about as I do. Even when I have used extra batter to make a couple toast from regular bread they have refused to touch them. This morning I made french toast that were, in Sam's words, "custardy but a little orangey and really yummy." Is there any higher compliment than from a child who articulates such specific culinary feedback?

Here are some tips on making truly worthy french toast:

BREAD. French baguette or Italian bread from the supermarket bakery is what I generally use. Challah is also nice. Brioche is divine. I slice it about 1 to 1 1/4" thick (on the diagonal for small diameter breads like baguette). Slice it up and leave it out to dry the night before for maximal custard-ness.

EGGS AND MILK. The more liquid you use, the looser the inside of your toast is. 1/3 cup liquid per egg is often used. I use closer to 1/2 cup. Whole milk or half and half is fine. A combination of half orange juice and half cream is quite good. I haven't tried apple cider yet, but I am sure it would also be quite good as half the liquid. If you use reduced fat milk, add 2-3 Tbs. melted butter to the batter.

SWEETENER. I add a couple Tbs. of white or brown sugar. Honey or maple syrup are also good.

FLAVORINGS. I use about 1 tsp. or so of cinnamon. Other spices like nutmeg, cardamom, or cloves are also delicious (1/4 to 1/2 tsp.). I always add vanilla extract too. Today I also added maple extract, which is a new must have in my kitchen. Almond or coconut extracts would be worth trying. Microplaned citrus zest adds another dimension. 

LEAVENING. You don't need to, but I usually add a little baking powder and all purpose flour. The flour idea came from  America's Test Kitchen French Toast for Challah recipe. I think it helps the toast to fluff up and keeps them from deflating before you get them on the table. 

PREP AND COOKING. A hot griddle is a must. I turn the heat to high under the griddle while I prepare the batter and bread. For cooking, I keep it on med-high. For the inside to stay a little loose you need to cook them quickly.

Give the bread ample time to soak up the batter.  I push down on it to get the air out and help it suck the batter into the middle. If you slice into a cooked piece and it looks like plain bread in the middle you know you did not soak it long enough. 

Butter the griddle before each slice. I just rub a stick directly on the griddle.

Serving them straight off the griddle is best as they retain a hint of crispness on the outside. But, generally, I keep the toast on a preheated platter in a 200° oven while I am finishing them all. They can also go directly on the oven rack, which helps keep their steam from sogging them out.

THE BASIC RECIPE

4 large eggs

1 1/2 to 2 cups half and half

2 Tbs. sugar

1 tsp. baking powder

1/3 cup all purpose flour

1-2 tsp. vanilla extract

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. salt

2 hungry boys